In addition to the general info on the Autocross page, the following may be helpful:
1. Autocross numbers - each driver needs a unique set of numbers. These are usually 3 or 4 digits, and need to be affixed to the side of your car (plus the class designation). To get a set of numbers assigned, contact the Driving Event Registrar. There is a link on the "Contacts" page of the main site, or you can just e-mail to
registrar@pcasdr.org or
preregQ@pcasdr.org. You are allowed to pick any unused numbers, so think about what numbers you might want. You will keep these numbers indefinitely. You can also get the numbers the day of the AX, but doing it in advance makes the registration go quicker. You will want to get preprinted magnetics or decals, but I would come to the first AX and check out the different styles before ordering permanent numbers and class magnetics/decals.
2. When you register, ask for an instructor - no charge, and we require new drivers at AX events to have an instructor for the first four events.
3. Registering on-line in advance helps our registrar make things go smoother (and registering early saves you money).
Registration fees - if you preregister not later than the Tuesday before an event, the fees are $40 per driver. Use the "prepaid form" link:
http://www.pcasdr.org/forms/SDR%20Event ... 20Form.pdf
and you can fax it in with a credit card number.
"Late" registration (including on-site registration) is at least $45 - maybe $50.
NOTE - preregistration doesn't cost you ANYTHING. If you don't show up and drive, your credit card will NOT be charged, and if you do drive, any charge won't be posted until after the day of the event, so there is no reason not to preregister.
4. If your class isn't obvious from the AX classification page (
http://www.pcasdr.org/forms/AXRegForm.pdf - see second page), post a description of your car (year, model/name, engine size, turbo/S, etc. - e.g. "2005 997S" or "1999 Boxster") and any modifications on this forum and someone can help you classify the car. It helps if you know the classification before you register.
(Note - it is simpler than it looks. Basically, if you are driving an unmodified car on street tires, you will be in "xS/S", where "x" is the Class Definition (A-Q). Tires with treadwear of 200 or lower, or after-purchase modifications, can add "points" which then cause you to move through the classification tree from "xS/S" to "xS" to "xP", etc.)
5. A Helmet is the only safety equipment you need. The helmet should be a Snell SA2000 or later. Snell's new SA2005 helmets are supposed to be available October 1st, but if you can get a good price break on a new SA2000, that will be plenty safe. Either an SA2000 or M2000 (Motorcycle) helmet is acceptable.
(Note - the web page still says SA1995, but I believe that soon [now?] we will require SA2000 or later - they usually update every 5 years. If you have an SA1995 available, you can probably use that for a while, but I wouldn't buy one.)
Note that only Snell rated helmets are acceptable. DOT or other ratings do not count.
6. Car prep - basically, just needs to be safe and mechanically sound. No loose parts, etc. - read the rules for all info. Make sure tires have at least standard pressure (or maybe add 1-2 lbs to each tire). Make sure oil is full (not overfull), coolant ok, etc. Gas - have at least 1/3 to 1/2 a tank - you don't need a full tank, but you could use up at least a 1/3 of a tank at an AX. Tires should be good for a road trip and brakes should be in good condition.
7. I wouldn't do any mods before your first AX, but at the first one, ask someone driving the same kind of car how your suspension should be set up. Generally, if you want to be competitive, you want maximum negative camber, and zero (or very small) toe-in. A $200 suspension setup is zero points and can make a significant improvement in handling over a stock setup.
8. Buy (and read!) "Driving in Competition" by Alan Johnson. This is THE basic reference for performance driving - he clearly explains a lot of the concepts and techniques that are important. It is well-written, entertaining, and informative and (except for the final chapter on how to campaign a Formula 1 team) applicable to us weekend warriors in all driving venues.
9. Get there before 7am (6:45 is good!). Your first time, you may need a little extra time to get everything sorted out.
10. When you arrive, find a place to park and completely (!!!) empty out your car. That means all loose items, including in the trunk(s), glove box, under seats, door pockets, console, etc. (and garage door openers on the visors). A bag to put loose items in is a good idea. After emptying out the car, you can get into the Technical Inspection line. After Tech Inspection, you will get stickers - if you pre-registered, you will get an envelope with your wristband and car sticker; if not, you will then have to go to the trailer and register. You need to complete Tech BEFORE registering at the trailer.
Many of us also remove our spare tire (our car's anyway - my spare tire isn't removable - sigh). Extra weight just slows you down.
11. Once registered, you will need to put your numbers on the sides of the car. We have colored duct tape (assuming you don't have magnetics/decals). Do this as soon as you are registered, then hang out near the trailer for the track walk and drivers' meeting.
12. Tools aren't normally needed, unless your car has a history of problems.
Bring sunblock, hat, folding chair, etc. for comfort when not driving. At some point, you will be asked to "corner work" which means you could be standing out in the sun for up to 1-1/2 hours, so be prepared. We provide unlimited water and sodas, so you don't need to bring those.
You probably want window cleaner, rags/towels, etc. In the late afternoon, sun through a dirty windshield can be distracting.
Spare oil is a good precaution.
13. Food - there is usually a lunch truck at the event from around 9:30 until about 1:30.
14.-99. Have fun!