Which 944 to buy???

[lrayner]

I am looking for a 944 to autocross. At this point at least, I would keep it stock. There seems to be a fair number of them available in the 4 to 6k range. Are there years to avoid or seek out? Anything to watch out for? Is a turbo worth the extra$$? Is this a slippery slope? No, wait, I think I know the answer to that last question Thanks.

[harnishclan]

VERY slippery slope. The first step over the cliff goes something like "I bet XXX tires will get me a second per lap." Then comes "I don't really need a back seat and all of this carpet just to AX now do I?" After that, the avalanche has begun!

[Steve Grosekemper]

You want an 85.5 or later car. (better suspension and stuff)
Look at 944S2's as well. Like a turbo w/o the lag. (but hard to find)
These cars run in J instead of G. Just as early turbos do.
87> are nice because they have the right wheel offset to use all the late model 17" wheels that can be had for a song used.
Turbo's aren't the best for AX.. nice for TT and DE.
The problem with a turbo is the extra ice they provide down the slippery slope. Chip, suspension, exhaust, seats, rip out the interior wheels tires... and they are a lot harder to drive than a NA car.
Oh ya, and a lot more money... usually after you buy the car.
(but a lot of fun when done correctly)

I think the 944S2 is the best compromise of power and balance. 86 944 is the best bang for the buck.

[Jad]

Having owned a '78 924, 83, 86, and 88 944, an 89 S2 and now an 88 turbo S, I have to completely agree with Steve. The S2 is possibly one of the best all around cars ever built by anyone. It has no real weekness in any area.

You will learn to drive the best starting in a regular n/a (normally aspirated, ie non turbo). It is virtually impossible to learn to drive well starting with high hp. Turbos are even worse as learning the timing of throttle steer is much harder.

Always choose the LOVED car, not the 'deal'. You can quickly spend more than the purchase price on repairs, so buy a car that has been driven a lot and well cared for. With a clutch costing $2k, 20 year old expensive seals that will leak when you race it for the first time, buying a car ready to go for an extra $1-2k is well worth the money.

[Otto]

As an owner of a 1986 944 Turbo, I agree with Steve and Jad. My only additional comment is that I believe the 944 S2 would not be the competitive car to have if you plan on modifications beyond JSS or JS. The Turbo on the other hand can be very thrilling and competitive in a class like JP or JI but you will need a fat wallet to properly prepare it to the required standard. I can attest to that.

[harnishclan]

Major things to pay close attention to:

Control arms-Steel ones(83-85.5) are prone to cracking but have replaceable ball joints. Aluminum(85.5-89 in two lengths) tend to have ball joint failure and do not lend themselves well to rebuilds.
Water Pump-By now, all of them should have the upgraded "turbo" water pump.
Timing/Balance Shaft belts-Engines before 87 require manual adjust and tension, 87 and later have auto tensioner, but should still be done.
Clutch-Original or very old replacement clutch will be rubber centered and it is only a matter of time before it breaks. Fairly labor intensive, therefore expensive repair.
Oil Cooler seals (or any place in the motor where oil meets water)- if they are worn, nice mocha milk shake in the radiator overflow.

Annoying minor things:
Shift lever bushing, cassette tape hinge, power steering rack leaks, strut mount bearing, cracked dashboard, exterior door handle adjustment, constant heat regardless of AC setting, rust under battery, water in rear wheel storage from worn rubber grommets.