PCA SDR

I'm shopping for new brake hoses and I've found some surprising info regarding the stainless steel variety. The short answer I'm getting is, only go with (DOT) stainless if you will replace them every year or two.

* Dirt getting under them can cause premature failure, so they should be covered in heat shrink material
* Cannot inspect for cracking prior to eminent failure.

I'd like a firmer peddle but I'm not so sure I want to sign up for replacements every couple years. Is my research correct?

-George

Hi George,

Installing stainless steel brake lines is easy and one of the first mods I do to my cars. Stainless steel brake lines are better, stronger than the stock rubber brake lines and last at least as long as the stock rubber ones if not longer.

Honestly, I don't know anybody that replaces them every 2 years not even pro race teams.

The brand I use are the "Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines" they are standard in many forms of motorsports and come either with or without a clear shrink material. They also sell the lines per foot and fittings for custom applications or custom brake lines.

Since brakes are pretty important and you probably want to buy a bolt-on set, then I would go with set a that is either TUV or DOT certified. Usually a set of Goodridge for a Porsche cost $120-$200 for all four corners.

I wouldn't worry about putting them on, as Martin said, they are stronger than original. But don't expect them to firm up the pedal much unless your old lines are breaking down, new rubber will feel almost as firm as SS under most conditions. I have never replaced a set of SS brake line either, just be careful taking the old lines out as they tend to be well attached after ~25 years.

Two years? Sounds like advice from a brake line salesman...
Rule of thumb is rubber lines have a life of 20 years and DOT stainless 7 years.
Precise line makes a nice kit for Porsche in a DOT version.
I think they are about $125.
Rubber hoses flex and the nylon liner of a stainless braided line does not so the pedal is firmer.
(But don't expect a huge difference)
Make sure the stainless line does not rub on any other part of the car.

Thanks guys. Don't want to make any silly assumptions with brakes. Looks like the SS lines really are the way to go...
-George

FWIW: a firmer pedal in your 944 can be aided by replacing your fluid and bleeding the system frequently along with new lines (I also like SS lines). The more you purge the system of possible air/crud and moisture, the firmer the pedal over time. Get yourself a good bleeding system like the vacuum-pump system or a Power-Bleeder bottle and accessories, and purge your lines thoroughly with DOT4 fluid ... preferably something like ATE Super Blue or Gold brake fluid. Heat-cycling your lesser quality fluid isn't good for firm brakes.

Additionally, good brake-pad upgrades will help with a firmer pedal. Porterfield, Pagid, and Hawk all make upgraded pads that can range from street-only to street/track to track-only pads. I ran Porterfield R-4S pads for street and track on my 944 with very happy results.

My 2-cents. Good luck.

Thanks Dan, yes I already noticed the more responsive pads; actually some quality drilled roters made a difference too.

I was thinking you might help answer my next question, regarding conservation ecology and brake fluid.... saving a coin is nice but the big motive here is avoiding unnecessary waste.

Can I reuse fluid? I don't mean the stuff in the lines but new fluid spent in the course of bleeding? I was thinking purging existing fluid, then capturing new fluid lost durring bleeding and putting it through a coffee filter or something to save for later?

Like I said, I'm not trying to save the cost of a quart or two, I'm more interested i eliminating unnecessary waste. Any suggestions for filtering and reusing new fluid?

-George

NEVER try to re use brake fluid, Your life depends on your brakes.
You should be able to do the flush with one can.
How are things up north?

galis wrote:Thanks Dan, yes I already noticed the more responsive pads; actually some quality drilled roters made a difference too.

I was thinking you might help answer my next question, regarding conservation ecology and brake fluid.... saving a coin is nice but the big motive here is avoiding unnecessary waste.

Can I reuse fluid? I don't mean the stuff in the lines but new fluid spent in the course of bleeding? I was thinking purging existing fluid, then capturing new fluid lost durring bleeding and putting it through a coffee filter or something to save for later?

Like I said, I'm not trying to save the cost of a quart or two, I'm more interested i eliminating unnecessary waste. Any suggestions for filtering and reusing new fluid?

-George

Like Jerry implies, don't re-use any fluids in the car: brake fluid, oil, coolant ... NADA. It isn't worth the trouble, even though your motives are altruistic.

If you don't already have it (and everyone should), dedicate a 5-gallon can to Household Hazardous Waste (HHW). Most every city now has a HHW program where you can deposit your HHW and re-use your can. I use a 5-gal. poly gas can with HHW written on it. When it's full, I take it to a designated facility for disposal.

You can take your used motor oil to almost any parts store for free recycling, your coolant/water mix can be disposed of down a sewer-connected drain (toilet or garage basin is OK ... don't dispose of it in septic tank systems or storm drains!!), your solvents, detergents, old gas, and other chemicals (Brake fluid) can go to HHW programs.

Hope that helps.

galis wrote:Can I reuse fluid? I don't mean the stuff in the lines but new fluid spent in the course of bleeding? I was thinking purging existing fluid, then capturing new fluid lost durring bleeding and putting it through a coffee filter or something to save for later?

Like I said, I'm not trying to save the cost of a quart or two, I'm more interested i eliminating unnecessary waste. Any suggestions for filtering and reusing new fluid?

George, as you probably know, the enemy of brake fluid is humidity and moisture. The filtering process in the open air would add even more moisture to the fluid. Using fresh brake fluid that has been sitting in an open container is a no-no for that same reason. Putting your used brake fluid throug a filtering process would not be as important as putting it through some type of "drying" process, if that is even possible.

If you want to reuse your brake fluid, save it for some sort of paint removal job. I hear it works well

Dan Chambers wrote:You can take your used motor oil to almost any parts store for free recycling, your coolant/water mix can be disposed of down a sewer-connected drain (toilet or garage basin is OK ... don't dispose of it in septic tank systems or storm drains!!), your solvents, detergents, old gas, and other chemicals (Brake fluid) can go to HHW programs.

Hope that helps.

Dan I completely disagree that you should dump coolant down the drain. It is a very dangerous fluid as it can taste good to animals and kill them. (Unless you are referring to the used air of an air cooled engine!) I know you are the expert, but are you sure it is a good idea to dump coolant?????????

Jad wrote:

Dan Chambers wrote:You can take your used motor oil to almost any parts store for free recycling, your coolant/water mix can be disposed of down a sewer-connected drain (toilet or garage basin is OK ... don't dispose of it in septic tank systems or storm drains!!), your solvents, detergents, old gas, and other chemicals (Brake fluid) can go to HHW programs.

Hope that helps.

Dan I completely disagree that you should dump coolant down the drain. It is a very dangerous fluid as it can taste good to animals and kill them. (Unless you are referring to the used air of an air cooled engine!) I know you are the expert, but are you sure it is a good idea to dump coolant?????????

The important note is sewer-drain.
From the AutoMedia website-

"Centers that recycle antifreeze are becoming more popular, but still not available everywhere. Check your local laws concerning recycling antifreeze to see if it is legal to dispose in the sewer system. Most municipal sewage treatment plants can usually safely break down the chemicals in antifreeze. Never pour antifreeze onto the ground, into a septic sewer system, or open sewer drain. The sewer pipe must go to a sewage treatment plant."

Greg

Dan I completely disagree that you should dump coolant down the drain. It is a very dangerous fluid as it can taste good to animals and kill them. (Unless you are referring to the used air of an air cooled engine!) I know you are the expert, but are you sure it is a good idea to dump coolant?????????

Jad: The compounds (amyl nitrate, etc) in coolant are treatable at many municipal waste water facilities. Since it is water soluble it carries quickly down the sewer system with other water uses and .... items .... in the sewer system.

If you pour it into a toilet and flush immediately it will be transported to the piping of the house, the piping in the yard, and ultimately into the street network and away from human and animal contact. Any residue will be left inside the vapor trap of your house's plumbing and well away from human and animal contact (unless you keep your goldfish in the traps ).

Pouring the compounds into a garage basin with the water running will wash the compounds into the sewer system much like flushing a toilet. Any residue will reside below the bottom of the sink/basin ... in the vapor trap.

It is far safer to wash amyl nitrate laden fluids into the sewer system than leave it in a container for a pet or child to open and drink. Pouring it into the sewer system is what the Dept of Health recommends as the safest way to handle automobile coolant. Solunds crazy, but it's the way SD wants it.

And ... as Greg said: sewer system, not storm drain or surface water ... or buried, on the ground, or in an evaporation pan.

Don't forget to flush.

Wow, ok thanks. Of course at the beach here, all the storm drains go directly to the ocean... but good to know I can flush it. Now if I could just flush Mobil 1, brake fluid, old paint and dead batteries

Jad wrote: ....Of course at the beach here, all the storm drains go directly to the ocean... but good to know I can flush it. Now if I could just flush Mobil 1, brake fluid, old paint and dead batteries

OK, then I'd have to bust your @ss.

HHW (Household Hazardous Waste) is set up for everything else.

And as a surfer and waterman, I can definitely attest to storm drains leading directly to the ocean. How many cigarette butts have I sat next to on my board?!?