PCA SDR

My son and I have decided to work collaboratively on building a boxster spec racer – little by little. The first step is finding a donor car (which seems reasonable for 10-12K). Since we’re both unfamiliar with the boxster model I was hoping to seek the advice of more seasoned boxster owners for the first step. The rules require the donor to be between model years 97-99 - 2.5l engine only. Are there any significant differences between these years? One better than another? Thanks

See http://www.boxsterspec.com

Mark Garriott wrote:See http://www.boxsterspec.com

This is the source for Boxster spec info. I drive a 98 and I love this little car. The only significant difference between model years I am aware of is that they strengthened the suspension mounting points in 98. Might be important to you for racing.

Which class are you building for:
BSX - A stock car with tuned suspension and comp tires to run short track and time trials ( similar to PCA LS class).
BSR - A fully stripped and caged race car for Spec club racing. (requires a competition license and racing experience)

I am considering developing my car for BSX this year. Most drivers who are new to racing will build to BSX class and run it the first year while developing their skills and experience on the track.

Save your money for k1 speed next wednesday

Brad Roberts is a member of this club, and was instrumental in writing the Boxter specs. Give him a shout and he will help you sort everything out. He is a great guy and car nut, plus an experienced racer, race crewman and wrench.

Thanks all!! We're going all out - BSR. Probably going to run with SCCA and POC. Between the SoCal Craigslist postings we're going to have our hands full looking at cars this weekend. Can't believe the prices on the 97-99's - a lot less than we originally anticipated. I've looked at a couple here in San Diego and they're still almost to purdy to strip and make into a track car. Look's like the Boxster's are headed to be the next 944 - very economical way to get into the sport.

Aren't the newbies cute when they are this oblivious, still using words like economical and going all out.

Trust me, the car is never completely done, there is always another several thousand dollar repair lurking, take your estimate, double it, and you are about half way to the real cost and somehow, it all seems worth it (most of the time).

Welcome.

Jad wrote:Welcome.

Welcome on the slippery slope Enjoy building your race car, it's a great experience and I would do it again.

Don't get discouraged, but Jad is right. Per example my 911 started out as a $16k donor car and ended up being ~$45k race car and I can think of more to do. But, it is now exactly what I always wanted it to be: a reliable, lightweight, fast and fun do drive race car.

Some may disagree with me, but I think you are doing the right thing by going directly to a full on race car or at least as far as the Boxster Spec Rule Book allows you to go.

The beauty with "spec racing" vs "check book racing" is someone has already done the research and you don't have to figure out which shocks, springs and other mod works or not. But there is no such thing as cheap racing.

Well, besides some minor distractions this summer (a couple of surfing excursions) we're getting closer to nailing down our donor car selections. First choice is a model year ‘98 in LA with 88K miles. However, it comes with a salvage title. Should this be a deterrent if the car checks out positive? The car has recently gone through serious maintenance (all good) new clutch, bearings, water pump, plugs, etc.

Additionally, there are some killer deals on a couple of tiptronic models? Should this even be an option or are they non-competitive in the bigger scheme?

Lastly, once the interior is gutted the safety cage will be put in, any SD County recommendations?

Cheers,

Chaz

Yes - all the Boxster Spec web sites have been a great help!

Salvage title can work well in your favor depending on the reason for the salvage. If it's theft recovery, damaged paint or interior, it will help you negotiate a low price. If it's flood damaged or accident, be very careful - you don't know what gremlins are lurking.

As for the rest of my advice, it's worth just a little less than what you paid for it, so bear that in mind.

Seems to me there's something special about post 2000 models - expansion tank is better, or fewer RMS leak issues, something like that? Boxster weinies should be able to chime in with something useful here.

In any event, clear your to-do list of any tiptronic examples - you don't want to race with it, and you don't want to try to convert it. There's plenty of cars out there with nice manual transmissions.

surfnchaz wrote:Lastly, once the interior is gutted the safety cage will be put in, any SD County recommendations?

I had a great experience with AutoPower http://www.autopowerindustries.comthey replicated my 964 Cup Rollcage based on photos. Bring them your pictures and/or drawings and maybe a copy of the rulebook when you drop off your car.

Also go with a weld in cage, don't even mess with a bold on cage. Drop off the car gutted, with nothing in it that you may want to reuse.

Note: I tried at least three other local shops, which two of them I ended up taking my car back after waiting for two weeks and nothing was done.

Don't forget a pre purchase inspection by a quality wrench, especaily one that has done a boxster spec build. They can give you an unbiased opinion of the potential liabilites of a car and save you money in the long run. You are taking about a ten year old car and very few cars that age have no potential issues.

Have fun with your project and go see some races!

If you haven't already, contact Brad Roberts (Brad Roberts Automotive Group - sales@bradrobertsag.com). He is one of the local gurus of Spec Boxster racing. He can advise you about donor cars, things to look at, etc. - he also may have some donor cars available.
I would probably not get a Tiptronic car. While they can be driven very competitively, I think a manual shift can get you just a little bit more as you become very competitive. There was a good article in Panorama a few years ago about racing a Tiptronic - there are a few things you need to do a little different to maximize performance with one.