Tech Session @ Autowerks summary: Insurance & carwash
Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:14 amWe had a great turnout with fifty clubmembers present. In addition to a
discussion of the technical aspects of collision restoration, we touched on
several areas important to all Porsche fanatics....insurance coverage and
the problems attendant with keeping your treasure clean.
On the insurance side, my belief is that the first step is to settle on a
relationship with a shop with whom you're willing to entrust the restoration
of your car in the event of a collision or other body / paint related issue.
Have a discussion to find out with whom they have the best relationships and
then chose well. To make this important decision based solely on premium
dollars or advertising hyperbole is almost always a mistake. The second most
important basis for your decision should be to carefully read the fine print
to make sure your coverage includes the use of O.E.M parts, even if you have
to pay a little more. Several companies offer a "rider" to bridge this gap.
Note: Rental car coverage is NOT always included in 'full coverage'! Beware
of the mention of "certified" aftermarket parts or an insurers option to
utilize "remanufactured" components as well. While these "options" are
sometimes appropriate on older cars in an effort to keep the car from
totaling, frequently these cost control schemes lead to inferior repair
quality and unhappy customers.
In reference to the 'Car Wash Blues'; IMHO, the less you physically touch
the finish, the better....certainly NEVER in a dry state. The use of
"detailer in a spray bottle", California (or any other state, for that
matter) Duster, etc. should be avoided. I have found over the years that
the majority of "spider-webbing", that annoying elliptical scratch pattern
around the sun's reflection on your car, is primarily caused by improper
cleaning techniques. If you really want to largely eliminate this issue, you
need to try the following, starting with an uncorrupted finish, obviously:
First, buy or gain access to a small pressure washer...Lowe's, Home Depot,
etc. all offer inexpensive units. Second, purchase a compact D.I.
(de-ionizing) system to utilize with your water supply. These are also
available in several different configurations taking price and space into
consideration. While the benefit of a pressure washer is obvious, the D.I.
system will allow you to wash and rinse the car without the necessity of
hand drying it. Remember, the less physical contact the better!! While it's
best to attempt this early or late in the day, the D.I. will not allow the
car to 'spot'...even in direct summer sunlight....period!
With the bucket, a diluted car wash soap cocktail (mostly employed to make
water 'wetter'), several soft brushes and you're ready to go! Wet the car
down and keep it wet for ten minutes! Keep water flowing on and over it,
don't just let it sit! While this is guaranteed to arouse the ire of your
neighbors it is imperative to hydrate the particles clinging tenaciously to
your cars' finish. After this embarrassing ordeal, aggressively pressure
wash the finish, making passes over the entire car about three inches apart
and then give it a final, from the top down, pre-wash rinse. This technique
will remove 95% of the grit....the primary cause of spider-webbing. Gently
use the soft brushes to remove any remaining contaminants. Rinse
periodically....do not allow your cocktail to dry on the finish if possible,
Now, after attending to the wheels, rockers and bottoms of bumpers with a
dedicated brush, simply aggressively rinse the car, top to bottom, and
you're pretty much done. I've personally used this technique on a freshly
restored black M5 for nearly a year with gratifying results, just to prove
my theory.
Regards to all and I hope the tech session and this follow-up have been of
value.
Phil
discussion of the technical aspects of collision restoration, we touched on
several areas important to all Porsche fanatics....insurance coverage and
the problems attendant with keeping your treasure clean.
On the insurance side, my belief is that the first step is to settle on a
relationship with a shop with whom you're willing to entrust the restoration
of your car in the event of a collision or other body / paint related issue.
Have a discussion to find out with whom they have the best relationships and
then chose well. To make this important decision based solely on premium
dollars or advertising hyperbole is almost always a mistake. The second most
important basis for your decision should be to carefully read the fine print
to make sure your coverage includes the use of O.E.M parts, even if you have
to pay a little more. Several companies offer a "rider" to bridge this gap.
Note: Rental car coverage is NOT always included in 'full coverage'! Beware
of the mention of "certified" aftermarket parts or an insurers option to
utilize "remanufactured" components as well. While these "options" are
sometimes appropriate on older cars in an effort to keep the car from
totaling, frequently these cost control schemes lead to inferior repair
quality and unhappy customers.
In reference to the 'Car Wash Blues'; IMHO, the less you physically touch
the finish, the better....certainly NEVER in a dry state. The use of
"detailer in a spray bottle", California (or any other state, for that
matter) Duster, etc. should be avoided. I have found over the years that
the majority of "spider-webbing", that annoying elliptical scratch pattern
around the sun's reflection on your car, is primarily caused by improper
cleaning techniques. If you really want to largely eliminate this issue, you
need to try the following, starting with an uncorrupted finish, obviously:
First, buy or gain access to a small pressure washer...Lowe's, Home Depot,
etc. all offer inexpensive units. Second, purchase a compact D.I.
(de-ionizing) system to utilize with your water supply. These are also
available in several different configurations taking price and space into
consideration. While the benefit of a pressure washer is obvious, the D.I.
system will allow you to wash and rinse the car without the necessity of
hand drying it. Remember, the less physical contact the better!! While it's
best to attempt this early or late in the day, the D.I. will not allow the
car to 'spot'...even in direct summer sunlight....period!
With the bucket, a diluted car wash soap cocktail (mostly employed to make
water 'wetter'), several soft brushes and you're ready to go! Wet the car
down and keep it wet for ten minutes! Keep water flowing on and over it,
don't just let it sit! While this is guaranteed to arouse the ire of your
neighbors it is imperative to hydrate the particles clinging tenaciously to
your cars' finish. After this embarrassing ordeal, aggressively pressure
wash the finish, making passes over the entire car about three inches apart
and then give it a final, from the top down, pre-wash rinse. This technique
will remove 95% of the grit....the primary cause of spider-webbing. Gently
use the soft brushes to remove any remaining contaminants. Rinse
periodically....do not allow your cocktail to dry on the finish if possible,
Now, after attending to the wheels, rockers and bottoms of bumpers with a
dedicated brush, simply aggressively rinse the car, top to bottom, and
you're pretty much done. I've personally used this technique on a freshly
restored black M5 for nearly a year with gratifying results, just to prove
my theory.
Regards to all and I hope the tech session and this follow-up have been of
value.
Phil