Bar-B-Qed rotors??

[Cajundaddy]

Ok veteran track guys we need your input. This weekend my brother and I completed a two day time trial at Buttonwillow in unusually cool conditions and both our front rotors are really warped when hot. My car has Balo's and his are OEM but they are equally thrashed. I doubt they could be turned out because the serious judder only happens after lap 2 (hot). It gets so bad that in heavy braking zones I can barely hang on to the car. Any good solutions for better pads/rotors or better heat management for the fronts? GT3 ducts? Dryer ducting? Evaporative mist system? We are running Boxster BSX cars that are just class legal weight (2950) with pagid yellow pads and SRF fluid. No noticable fade issues but really rough rotor judder under heavy braking as the session progresses. Ideas?

[Steve Grosekemper]

Ok vetran track guys we need your input. This weekend my brother and I completed a two day time trial at Buttonwillow in unusually cool conditions and both our front rotors are really warped when hot. My car has Balo's and his are OEM but they are equally thrashed. I doubt they could be turned out because the serious judder only happens after lap 2 (hot). It gets so bad that in heavy braking zones I can barely hang on to the car. Any good solutions for better pads/rotors or better heat management for the fronts? GT3 ducts? Dryer ducting? Evaporative mist system? We are running Boxster BSX cars that are just class legal weight (2950) with pagid yellow pads and SRF fluid. No noticable fade issues but really rough rotor judder under heavy braking as the session progresses. Ideas?

Hey Dave
We had a great time running you you guys this weekend in your "cheater" BSX cars... (Inside joke)
We had similar problems with Gregs 911SC and tried every combo I could come up with.
The brakes worked great just warped and cracked rotors and we have huge brake coolers
For you; GT3 lower A-Arm scoops is a start but the key is brake pads.
We settled on Raybestos ST-43 and we are very happing with the braking and pad/rotor life.
Brake similar to Pagid orange. (better on some points worse on others) but pad and rotor life is increadible.

This is after 2 time trials with two drivers and one of them being a moderately "aggressive" braker... (Not naming names...)
They look like thay have maybe 10-20% wear.

I think they stop so well we are just not having to use the brakes as long and therefore not putting heat into the rotors.

Give them a try. Bill Ibbeston turned me on to these after he used them for quite a while.
http://porterfield-brakes.com/images/ra ... _19_04.pdf

[Cajundaddy]

Thanks Steve,
It was great hanging with you guys at BW. Is that my new nickname now? CB? I introduced myself to (the guy) and after chatting a bit he invited me to instruct with him for a session Sunday AM. He has a well prepared Box S that is capable of 2:10s but he was running 2:20s. I believe all class legal questions have been satisfied. Steve, I promise not to call you BF (you know...) if you promise not to call me CB.

We will give those ST-43 pads a try. I have heard from others that they are good and 1/2 the cost of yellows. Thanks again and we will see you at the next one.

[Steve Grosekemper]

Thanks Steve,
It was great hanging with you guys at BW. Is that my new nickname now? CB? I introduced myself to (the guy) and after chatting a bit he invited me to instruct with him for a session Sunday AM. He has a well prepared Box S that is capable of 2:10s but he was running 2:20s. I believe all class legal questions have been satisfied. Steve, I promise not to call you BF (you know...) if you promise not to call me CB.

We will give those ST-43 pads a try. I have heard from others that they are good and 1/2 the cost of yellows. Thanks again and we will see you at the next one.

Deal! I will drop the initials if you will!
Ya, I saw you getting in the right seat when I was behind him in pregrid and thought it was pretty funny to see him sleeping with the enemy
(So to speak- Don't want to start and rumors here)

Great time, see you back there in September.

[rshon]

GT3 front brake ducts will help keep the front rotors cooler. Also, I know there are a lot of differing opinions on cross-drilling, but Boxster S' and all Carreras have always come with cross drilled rotors. I have also heard that some BSR guys used "Cryo-chilled" rotors, but I don't really understand enough about it to comment on whether it will help you with the warping problem.

There are 4 different sizes of GT3 front brake ducts (really scoops) that I am aware of that will fit the Boxster control arms (or any late model Carrera):
Street 997 GT3 - 99734148392/99734148492 (relatively inexpensive, somewhat larger than stock)
(The other 3 are significantly larger than stock, easily more than $100 ea, depending on where you buy it)
Early 996 GT3 (aka "GT2") - 99634111790/99634111890
996 GT3 - 99634111791/99634111891
996 GT3RS - 99634111792/99634111892
(There are pictures of the first two on the Suncoast Porsche Parts website; you could also check Sunset Porsche for prices.)

One last thing to think about is that some Porsche track guys juggle their front and rear pad compounds to shift their brake bias rearward (as an alternative to installing a way to adjust the bias, which probably isn't allowed in Boxster Spec). If you've never experienced rear wheel lockup under hard braking, you could consider going to a grabbier rear pad, as your Pagid Yellows are more for durability and not so much for maximum friction...

[Cajundaddy]

Thanks Russell, I think the GT3 ducts and different pads are a good place to start. Running diferent pads on the rear is legal in class. Many of the BSR guys are doing it so I set up that way shortly after I started wearing comp tires. I have P Blacks on the rear but my brother is running OEM on the rear. Both our front rotors are toast.