Jad wrote:Thanks for the input. Some places the keying is deep, showing primer through, so maybe a paint matching product might be best.
Dan???
"I progress"" being the key word.
The process I'm attempting is simple: add paint layers to the scratch area from a chip repair bottle acquired from the dealership to the scratch. Add a thin layer at a time until the affected area is thicker than the surrounding paint. Mask off the area on both sides and using a sanding block carefully sand down the affected area. Sand until the tape just starts to scuff. Then ... wet sand, wet sand, wet sand. The tape will be slightly thicker/higher than the surrounding paint, assuring no scratch/sanding marks affect the local area around the key-mark.
Now: I'm still in the "add paint" phase. It involves:
1) thoroughly cleansing the area with rubbing alcohol or similar light solvent. Adding paint using a toothpick or very very small/fine brush. I don't "brush" the paint on; I dab it in small droplets and let laminar flow/gravity spread it. Let it dry before washing/waxing, etc.
To do one quarter-panel of the SC with toothpick paint dabbing takes about 2 to 3 hours. Yep. That long to do it right. I'm in about 40 to 60 hours right now, and far from done.
GODD NEWS! Looks like I can skip the build-and-sand method by using Dr. Colorchip and some paint already added. From what I can tell, I can probably use the paint I've already added, plus what comes in the Dr. Colorchip system, and be done in a shorter amount of time. I've looked into the Dr. Colorchip stuff and it looks pretty good.
The trick is to bring the affected area all the up to the level of the surrounding paint. Even if primer/metal is showing, it can be filled.
That's my story, and I'm sticking with it.

Dan Chambers"It's
just a "well prepared" street car ... or a very, very well-mannered track car."

1983 SC #91 3.6L, "Black Pearl" Livery
1987 944 (gone but not forgotten)